For midi 5mm beads every major brand's board is cross-compatible in hole spacing, but tab geometry and peg thickness differ. Buy boards and beads from the same brand when you can, and check two things on any new board: hole count (29×29 for a standard large square) and whether your beads sit with a little play.
The Board Landscape
| Brand | Large square | Small square | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Perler | 29×29 holes | 15×15 holes | Interlocking tabs; the de facto standard |
| Hama | 29×29 holes | 15×15 holes | Tabs are slightly different in profile; interlocks with Perler in practice |
| Artkal | 29×29 holes | 15×15 holes | Fits Perler tabs; peg tolerance slightly tighter |
| MARD | 29×29 holes | — | Tighter pegs; pairs best with MARD beads |
| Generic / no-name | usually 29×29 or 30×30 | varies | Hole count varies — verify before buying multiple for a large project |
The number that matters is hole count, not physical board size. A "large square" from two brands can measure differently while holding the same 841 pegs, or measure identically while holding 900. If you plan a multi-board project, buy all boards from the same product line at the same time.
Compatibility in Practice
| Combination | Verdict |
|---|---|
| Perler beads on Hama midi board | Works; slightly looser fit |
| Hama beads on Perler board | Works; the most common mixed setup |
| Artkal M (2.6mm) on any midi board | Does not work — mini beads, mini boards |
| MARD beads on Perler board | Usually works; tight pegs mean stiff placement |
| Maxi beads (10mm) on midi board | Does not work |
| Generic boards with major-brand beads | Test a 5×5 patch before committing to a large project |
Two failure modes to check for on any board-bead pairing:
- Too tight: the bead will not drop on the peg without force, and forcing it bends the peg. Over a whole project this is wrist-destroying and the bent pegs leave gaps.
- Too loose: the bead wobbles and falls off when you nudge a neighboring row. Loose fits cause the "beads jumped during ironing" problem more than anything else.
Step-by-Step: Choosing Boards for a Large Project
1. Count the holes on one board. Physically. Count along one edge and confirm the grid is square.
2. Verify interlocking. Click two boards together and lay them flat — mismatched tabs produce a step at the seam, which shows up as a visible line in the finished piece.
3. Build a 5×5 test patch with your beads on the new board and iron it. This is a two-minute test that catches tolerance problems before you place 3,000 beads.
4. Buy the full set you need in one purchase. Board production runs vary slightly; boards from different runs sometimes interlock with a step.
5. Label board edges. Marker dots on the same corner of every board saves hours when assembling a large grid.
Pro Tips
- Tape boards together on the back with masking tape before a large build. Small gaps between boards let beads drop through during ironing, and tape is removed after fusing.
- Store boards flat and stacked, not leaning against a wall. Leaning warps them over months — and a warped board transfers its warp into every piece you make on it.
- The transparent boards are worth the small premium: you can place them over a printed pattern and build directly on top of the reference.
- For kids' groups, buy more small boards (15×15) rather than fewer large ones. Small boards mean each child finishes a piece in one session, which the workshop guide is built around.
FAQ
Are all 5mm bead boards compatible?
Hole spacing is the same across brands, and in practice beads and boards mix. The differences are tab geometry, peg thickness, and board stiffness — all worth testing with a 5×5 patch before a big project.
How many boards do I need for a 58×58 piece?
Four 29×29 boards, assembled 2×2 and taped on the back. For a 87×87 piece, nine boards in a 3×3 grid.
Is a clear board better?
For pattern tracing, yes — you can place it over a printed grid and build on top. For general use, either works; just check that the plastic is stiff enough not to flex when you lift it with a full load of beads.
My beads fall off the board when I move it. What now?
Loose peg tolerance. Move boards by sliding a stiff card or a second board underneath, or place the beads directly beside the iron so the board never travels.